Hohhertz Oil Field Camp
Invites Past into Present
By Jeff Clark
Folks who
say Texas history
never dies haven’t driven enough dusty back roads. One passes old foundations, stacked
rock walls and “out of place” fence rows knowing that Lives unfolded out there.
Lives that
were never written down.
Teams of
archeologists, historians and forensic investigators could descend on the place,
I suppose. Years and millions of dollars later they could piece together a glossy
paper guess about the people who lived out there.
But without
those people, it’d still be a guess.
I was told
about the Hohhertz Camp, a Texas & Pacific Coal & Oil Company camp located
on Hohhertz Road ,
straddling the southeastern border between Palo Pinto and Stephens Counties .
I drove out.
I didn’t
see a lot.
Like others
from my instant-messaging generation, I don’t have the time or that team of
specialists to help uncover all the lost places I hear about.
All those
clues calling from behind barbed wire fence rows.
Hohhertz Camp was started by the T
& P Coal & Oil Company sometime before 1917. Billy Gordon and his dad W.K.
of Thurber fame were said to be hunting around Hohhertz when the McClesky oil
well blew in that year, setting off the short-lived Ranger Oil Boom. They
returned to their car, finding a note on their steering wheel announcing the
news. That’s the earliest date I could verify. Seeping oil bedeviled several
coal mines to the south and southeast of the Hohhertz area in the late 1800s,
considered a nuisance by mine owners until Spindletop taught them better.
Oil camps were temporary settlements
where men drilled then pumped crude oil from the ground. The T & P believed
in owning everything – the land, the store, families’ homes, the school, the
office, the recreation hall, probably some tents. Think Thurber, but smaller,
more mobile.
There might’ve been 250 living in
the community near its beginning. When the wells were all drilled, this number tapered
down over the years.
Towards the 1930s, Hohhertz Camp changed
from drilling, to mostly pumping and maintenance. Make sure the oil continues
to flow, but we’ll be in Midland
or Odessa if
you need us.
I went through lots of folks who
held small pieces of the puzzle until I happened upon the Sinclair girls –
Ellen, Norma and Billye. They grew up there. And then Stanley Bowen. His childhood memories were
shaped a few yards down the 1 x 12 wooden side walk from the Sinclair house.
I pulled up a chair. Took out a
pen.
Hohhertz Camp was a community in
every sense of the word. The first row of five or six identical company-owned houses
lining Hohhertz Road
faced south, just across the Stephens
County line.
There were three rows of these houses,
maybe 18 total. There were four or five more homes scattered south into Palo Pinto
County along this road. Bowen
remembered about 18 families in the 1930s and 1940s.
The Sinclair girls’ daddy William
Bryan Sinclair probably worked in Hohhertz longer than anyone, he maintaining a
pump station down the hill through the trees adjacent to the Hohhertz Ranch
until he retired in 1965. Sinclair could fix or build most anything. Rattlesnakes
slithered the countryside then and now. Below that hill sat a huge gas engine
(called “The Power” by residents) that ran 15 – 23 rod lines powering pumping oil
rigs in the fields.
The Sinclair house started with two
bedrooms, but Mr. Sinclair added a third. They had a bathroom and shower,
living room and kitchen. Their yard had cut grass and rock-lined flower beds.
If you’ve never been out to that part of the world, it’s rough rocky country.
The Sinclairs had a garden.
The camp houses boasted natural gas
and indoor plumbing, but no electricity until the REA years later. The Wirt Goodsons
owned a Maytag washing machine, though they had to heat the water in big
boiling pots and “prime” the clothes with the rub board first.
Toward the 1940s and 1950s there
were about 20 oil wells on the 800+ acre Stuart Place , the southern area of Hohhertz.
Lone Star Gas had a camp out there somewhere too.
Early Hohhertz Camp was said to have
a one room school on the south side of the road (below the water tower) that
closed around 1930. The Sinclair girls remember bus rides to Caddo through 6th
grade, then junior and senior high school students being bussed to
Breckenridge.
Families paid rent. Twelve
unmarried pumpers lived in a bunkhouse where meals were served. A party line
phone connected these homes across the cattle guard, a T & P company sign welded
overhead. The elevated water tank looks like a brother to the one at Thurber’s Big Lake .
Both are still in place. The still standing weathered barn at the ridge of
Hohhertz Camp held a big “pulling machine” used around the oil field for
various tasks.
Kids used to play kick the can, ante
over, took walks, rode bikes and played ball in the street. The most vivid
activity I heard about was their Color Stores. These stores’ “inventory”
consisted of bottles the kids filled with colored water, which they would then
“sell” to each other. Stanley 's brother Junior Bowen always came up
with odd colors that nobody else could figure out how to make.
Paper dolls
were a big item, cutting the dolls out of Sears Catalog, using candy boxes as houses,
making all sorts of "furniture" then pulling the candy
boxes along with a string (moving their houses from place to place).
The boys had rough hewn clubhouses
out in the countryside where they’d smoke grapevine and carry on as boys will.
All these kids remembered the Color
Stores.
Families traveled to Ranger to buy
groceries and watch wrestling and boxing matches. Dave Mitchell had a hoedown at
one of the houses – guitars and banjos making everyone hoop and holler with
delight.
The Sinclairs remember a little
store with a little bit of everything. Troyce Boone’s dad Daniel ran the
Hohhertz Store in its earliest days. I don’t know if he owned it or just
managed it for the company. Bowen remembered Mrs. Herrington running this store
in the 30s and 40s. Then the Roaches. Mrs. Herrington lived in a company house,
though she was not a company employee like everyone else.
The T & P Office was on the
south side of the road. Don Bonney was the big boss, the superintendent, a nice
man, the Sinclairs remembered. Everybody liked him.
T & P fashioned a recreation
building out of an empty house where women quilted and chatted, a quilting
frame hanging from the ceiling. The men played pool, dominoes and 42. A little
friendly wagering.
Rodney Mitchell spent 1946 in Hohhertz,
his first year of life. He remembers 30 people living there then, the water
tower on left, clapboard shacks scattered all about.
Dean and Lois Wilson were the last
to live in company housing there. They moved their house to Strawn where it
still sits. Hohhertz was a place where families were raised, where couples fell
in love, where life was lived then passed on to children.
Like many T
& P operations, most of the actors in this play moved on. There are a few
down the hill in Strawn’s Mount
Marion Cemetery ,
maybe a few more toward Necessity.
Hohhertz Camp the place is empty.
The community is scattered out there in the world, for a while longer, stretched
thin by decades of moving forward to whatever came next.
If you read this and you have
memories of old Hohhertz Camp, shoot me an email. Pull up a chair with the
others. We’re waiting to hear from you.
I was glad to come across this write up. I have been to this camp with my metal detector but not knowing what is was. seen the old street and old house foundations and not far away was a big ole Texas star fashioned from native rock came across some very old car license plates from 20's if I remember right? and found a 1920's penny.
ReplyDeleteThank you for writing this article. My mom was born in Hohhertz Oil Field Camp in 1928 and she had often talked about it. According to the 1940 US Census, she and her family were residing in the camp. We had been unable to locate any information on it until today when I was researching it again. Mom passed away on Saturday, 21 March 2015, but should we have been pleased to know that her birthplace had been located. Thanks again. ~
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for writing this. Stanley Bowen, my favorite uncle, passed away just last week. His brother Junior was my dad. When dad passed away a few years ago we brought him down from DC to be buried in Mt Zion Cemetery about an hour south of Hohhertz (Junior became a world traveled Diplomat, but wanted to be buried back in Texas). After the ceremony, Uncle Stan and Aunt Minta took all of us younger ones up to Hohhertz to show us where they all grew up. Stan mentioned the gas engine power plant that turned a Looong long shaft that went down the center of the camp just above the ground. His dad (my granddad) kept the power plant running. They didn’t have an electric power grid, so they used a mechanical power grid to run the various oil pumps spread out (leather belts would be used to take power off the long rotating shaft). Stan also mentioned that the old (model T?) cars they had back then would have to drive up that hill backwards (reverse had the lowest gear, and those first cars also had no fuel pumps, so they needed to keep the gas tank as high above the engine as possible. Minta (Stan and Juniors younger sister) mentioned how the kids would run that “color” store. Apparently some of their colored liquids actually worked as dies (people frequently made their own clothes so a die would liven up a dress or shirt :) Minta went on to be an executive for a national Paint company ;) She also mentioned how the kids would have camp fires at night where they would puff on those fake “vine” cigarettes, and sometimes light a tumbleweed on fire to see the ember light show as it blew off into the desert night. They all had many fond memories of Hohhertz. Stan went on to have a few different careers including running a few of his own oil wells as well as being a vice president for a bank. Again many thanks!
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